Dead Sea

Sunset View of Dead Sea
Bethany Layton 2011

C’mon, just try and sink!  A trip to Jordan would not be complete without a dip in the Dead Sea to experience just how true it is that you really do float.  The salt content of the water is 31.5% making the water so buoyant that it is impossible for the you to sink. The water also contains 21 minerals including high levels of magnesium, sodium, potassium, and bromine and 12 of these minerals are found in no other body of water in the world.  Because the water is so salty, be cautious to not get any water in your eyes as it will sting!  Also, if you have any cuts or nicks in your skin, these will all be brought to your attention by the burning sensation will experience.  Gives another meaning to ‘pouring salt on the wound.’ 

At 410 meters below sea level, the Dead Sea is also the lowest point on earth, making the climate sunny and warm year round.  Because of the climate and low elevation, you can swim and bathe in the sea year round - even in the winter!  One of the most popular activities is to cover yourself in the soothing mud from head to toe, let it dry and take a dip to rinse it off.  For centuries, mankind has believed in the medicinal properties in this mud, which has more of a clay-like, silky consistency.  

Fees:

You have a few options: use a beach associated with a hotel ($$-$$$), Amman Tourist Beach ($) or pull off to the side of the road along the coast and take a dip (free).  My suggestion is to pay for a room and stay overnight at a hotel and I will discuss my reasons why after explaining the alternatives. 

First, if you choose to take a dip somewhere along the coastline, you do not have access to showers, restrooms, and other amenities.  You usually cannot find the world-famous mud at these locations as well.  While it is free, yes, you get what you pay for.  You will definitely want to rinse off the salty water as soon as you are done taking a dip in the sea, so I would avoid this option unless your budget doesn’t permit otherwise. 

The second option is Amman Tourist Beach is more affordable at 16JD and includes amenities such as swimming pools, restrooms, showers and changing rooms.  However, this beach can get very crowded with locals and tourists alike, does not have much of a sandy beach to enjoy and the facilities are less than clean.  You can find mud, but must purchase it from a vendor selling it on the beach.  One of the biggest complaints I have heard from locals and tourists alike is the amount of men staring at the women.  I have many female friends that avoid this beach strictly because they feel uncomfortable with the amount of voyeurism happening on this beach.

The third option is to use the beach facilities through a hotel.  You can do this two ways: rent a room for the night (rooms from 80JD and up) or pay the beach only access fee (typically 35JD-50JD per person depending on the hotel).  In my experience, I would definitely spend the night.  You practically get the room for free (versus paying for beach only access) and you can spend as much time at the beach as you want and have a nice place to rest and recharge yourself after an activity filled day.  

Wadi Mujib Nature Reserve

View at beginning of Siq Trail, Wadi Mujib
Bethany Layton 7.28.12

While not as well-known as some of the other attractions, Jordan has a wonderful nature reserve park named Wadi Mujib Nature Reserve.  Located off the east shore of the Dead Sea, Wadi Mujib is a great place to escape the common hustle and bustle of the more visited attractions.  Because of the close proximity of the two, it is suggested to visit Wadi Mujib early in the day and then take the short drive to one of the hotels located on the beaches of the Dead Sea and spend the night. 

According to the Royal Society for the Conservation of Nature in Jordan (RSCN), at 410 meters below sea level, Wadi Mujib is the lowest nature reserve on earth.  The park has 5 hiking trails, 2 dry and 3 wet.  

Ray of Light, Siq Trail, Wadi Mujib
Bethany Layton 7.28.12

The  Siq Trail is the only self-guided trail available to hikers.  Open April 1^st to October 31^st, this trail is most popular and easiest of the trails offered at Wadi Mujib.  The hike will take approximately 2-3 hours round-trip, depending on how fast you go.  My suggestion is to take your time and take in the surroundings, look up and don’t forget to look back, at the ever-changing scenery that unfolds before you.  It is quite amazing to see the patterns in the surrounding sandstone, in some spots the stone is smooth and yellow, others vibrant red with wood grain texture.  The Siq Trail is one of the wet trails offered at the reserve.  At the beginning of your hike you have the option of avoiding the water, however, soon you will be forced to walk upstream in the river.  The hike soon becomes encased in vertical red and yellow sandstone cliffs, some as high as 200 meters, offering much appreciated shade to the hikers.  You will encounter a few points in the hike where you need to climb up and over 2-3 meter waterfalls, however, ropes have already been placed to assist you in your climbs.  Although this is the easiest of the trails, do not be fooled as it does require strategic foot placement  a good amount of upper body strength to hoist yourself up and over these mini-falls with the current working against you.  

Hikers relaxing and enjoying the cool water
of the waterfall located at end of Siq Trail
Bethany Layton 7.28.12

At the end is a much welcomed 20+ meter waterfall, a great payoff for all the hard work you put into getting yourself there.  Take your time and enjoy the cool spray from the waterfall, listen to the sounds of the waterfall as it rumbles down and hits the low pool at the bottom.  Enjoy your time, savor the experience.  By the time you reach the waterfall, you are most likely going to be completely wet.  Therefore, I suggest sitting or lying in one of the shallow spots of the river and taking the time to relax and enjoy the cool water that flows over and around your body, feeling the mist from the waterfall and reveling in the colorful sandstone cliffs that tower above you. You are able to walk and swim right up to and underneath the waterfall, and you can even navigate your way behind it and feel the force of the pounding water reverberating through your body.  

Plan:

Arrive early to the nature reserve and take the Siq Trail to the waterfall.  After you have completed the round-trip hike, drive to the Dead Sea and spend the night at one of the many hotels offered along the east bank.  This will allow you to clean up after the hike, as well as enjoy the benefits of the world-renowned mud and salt water.  Rest and relax overnight.  Visit Mt. Nebo and the Baptism Site before heading back into Amman the following day. 

Fees:

While there are a few guided trails at the Wadi Mujib Reserve, the easiest, fastest and most popular (and least expensive) is the self-guided Siq Trail.  The cost for this trail is 13JD and includes rental of the required life vest.  Other trails are offered as well, but you must have a guide and they are more expensive, require more time and are certainly more difficult.  Look here to find out more about the other trails within Wadi Mujib.

Tips:

• Wear comfortable clothing and shoes.  Keep in mind that you will be getting wet, so it is wise to wear clothing appropriate for this.  For women, polyester workout-out/running shorts are an excellent choice or any other shorts made of quick drying fabrick as well as a t-shirt.  You may want to wear a bathing suit underneath as well.  For men, swim or board shorts and a t-shirt will do fine. 
• For shoes, the best choice is an open style rugged hiking sandal such as Teva, hiking shoes, or tight fitting running shoe you don’t mind getting wet.  Keep in mind that you will be walking in a river as well as climbing over waterfalls so make sure it has a good, textured sole.  If you do wear shoes, ensure that they are tight fitting.  I lost a shoe and it had to be recovered by another hiker a while I was climbing one of the small waterfalls.  Make sure that they are on tight! 
• Remember to bring zip-top bags for your camera and anything else you don’t want to get wet.  Don’t get caught having to make the decision of leaving your camera and missing out on beautiful pictures or trying to negotiate with yourself that you can keep your camera dry (not going to happen!). 
• Bring an extra set of clothing so you can change after you are done with the trail.  There is a changing room located in the bathrooms at the ranger station at the beginning of the trail. 
• While it is quite shady and cool along the trail, you will be happy if you bring a bottle or two of water and even a small snack to enjoy at the end of the trail.  Remember to pack out all of your garbage!  

Petra

View of Treasury from Siq, Petra
Bethany Layton 2011

Most of the time you mention Jordan, the first thing that comes to everyone’s mind is Petra.  Petra, Greek for “stone,” is Jordan’s most popular and recognized historical site.  If you do not recognize the name, you will most likely remember it from the 1989 movie Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade where Indiana Jones (Harrison Ford) found the Holy Grail.  

More than 2,000 years ago, the Arab Nabataeans intricately carved hundreds of temples, tombs, sacrificial altars and houses into the sheer salmon-colored stone walls we now know as Petra.  Although the city was built over two millennia ago, the city was once lost to the world and was only recently rediscovered by Swiss explorer Johann Ludwig Burckhardt in 1812.  Best described by John William Burgon in 1845 in his poem titled Petra, “…A rose-red city, half as old as time.”  While written over a century and a half ago, this quote is still often used when describing and referring to the city.  You can find a copy of the entire poem in his book Petra and Other Poems on Google Books.

Treasury at Petra
Bethany Layton 2011

Located in the southern half of Jordan, Petra is approximately 3 hours from the capital of Amman.  While there are many ways to get there, including tour groups, public transportation buses, and taxis, your best bet is to rent a car.  This allows you as much time as you want to explore the park, and you can even stay overnight in one of the many hotels located in the surrounding city.  The biggest benefit of renting a car is that you do not arrive with a large tour group and you are able to explore the city at your own pace without the concern that you are on a set time schedule and end up rushing through.  This is not to say that Petra isn’t a huge tourist attraction and that it won’t be busy if you arrive via car, however, it will allow you to relax and really take in the majestic properties that it holds at your leisure.  Whether you are spiritual or not, it is an amazing feeling being surrounded by such a feat created by man over 2,000 years ago.  There is a lot to say of what humans can accomplish in the absence of television and internet!

One of many stone carved temples within Petra
Bethany Layton 2011

While you can cover the main attractions of the city in one day, I suggest that you get a two or three day pass to the park to allow a sufficient amount of time to truly explore the city.  For more in-depth information on Petra, please visit one or both of the websites specific to the park here or here. 



Fees:

A one day ticket for a visitor without a hotel accommodation is 90JD or about $125 U.S. Dollars (Currently, 1JD = Approx. $1.40 USD).  If you do have a hotel accommodation for at least one night within the surrounding city, the entrance fee to the park is much less: 50JD/1 day; 55JD/2 days; and 60JD/3 days. 

Tips:

• Don’t forget your camera! The sights are incredible and you will no doubt take many pictures, so it is best to have an extra battery on hand, just in case.
• Arrive as early as you can. You’ll beat the initial bus tour crowds and you will get the best sun for pictures in early to mid-morning (as well as late afternoon).  When the angle of the sun low, you will get the most red and pink colors of the surrounding rocks.  Another benefit to going early is to avoid the extreme temperatures that can occur in this desert city.
• Bring plenty of water and a snack or two, as well as sunscreen.  While there are a few shops, as well as a restaurant located inside the city, it is highly suggested to bring your own for economical purposes.
• Wear comfortable cotton clothing, a hat, and walking or hiking shoes.  I suggest that you find a shoe that does not have any mesh on it, or as little mesh as possible.  This will help lessen the amount of sand that will inevitably find its way inside your shoes.   Also, bring an extra pair of socks.  Your feet will thank you for the fresh change at the end of the day.  

Jordan: The Royal Tour

In 2002, His Majesty King Abdullah II bin Al-Hussein, the current King of Jordan, did a documentary on Jordan with Peter Greenberg, Travel Editor for NBC News.  The documentary, Jordan: The Royal Tour, is about 45 minutes long and it gives a quick overview of many of the popular sites in Jordan, some of which you will find outlined in my blog.  I suggest, if you have the time, to watch the video in its entirety.  You will be amazed at how beautiful and breathtaking Jordan really is. 

Interested in finding out more?  Watch the documentary in its entirety below or you can also find a link to the video on my websites tab above.  

This movie, combined with your own research of Jordan, will show you that it is a country generally mischaracterized by its location in the Middle East, guilty by association as some may say.  It also shows how welcoming and friendly Jordanians are.  As wonderfully described by Mr. Greenberg, referring to his trip to Jordan to film the Royal Tour above,

"When I first told my friends I was traveling to Jordan, they thought I was crazy. When I told them I was bringing them along, they tried everything they could to come up with an excuse not to go. I dragged them there, and then a funny thing happened. Five days later, they [did] everything they could…to stay. They discovered what I already knew – that Jordan is one of the safest, most hospitable places I know. I may live in America, but in Jordan, I am always welcomed home."

Peter Greenberg

Travel Editor, Today Show, NBC News

For more information on the historical sites of Jordan or general information about the country, please see the official tourism page at www.visitjordan.com.  Alternatively, if you are interested to learn about the current state of U.S. relations with Jordan, please visit the U.S. Department of State’s webpage regarding Jordan here.  

Marhaba . . . Hello!

View of Old Downtown Amman from RSCN-Wild Jordan Cafe
Bethany Layton 7.12.12

Marhaba!  Welcome to my blog, American Adventures in Jordan.  My name is Bethany and I am currently living in Amman, Jordan, but am originally from Salt Lake City, Utah, USA.  I am writing this blog for a couple different purposes.  First and foremost, this blog is meant to be an informative and useful tool for anyone travelling to Jordan.  The reason this blog was started was for a final project for one of my courses at the University of Utah.  I decided to take this blog from a class project and develop it into a more formal and informative blog.  I hope that along my journey as an American living in Amman, I can help assist many other westerners in their travels to this wonderful and welcoming country I now call home. 

Map of Jordan - Courtesy of Google Maps

While the official name of the country is the Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan,  it is most often referred to as Jordan.  Many times people know of the country and that it is located in the Middle East, but most could not pick it out on a map without names.  Positioned in what most people pretty rough "neighborhood," the surrounding countries include Syria, Iraq, Saudi Arabia, Israel and Lebanon.  Don’t let the location or neighboring countries deter you from visiting, Jordan is an extremely safe and stable country.  

Having lived most of my life in Utah, I came to Jordan with wide eyes.  Everything is very different and I have definitely experienced some culture shock.  Thankfully, I had friends and my new family here to assist me in my travels – helping me pick the important sites to visit, how to get there and assisting with the language.  Rest assured, even if you don't have a tour guide, almost the entire country speaks English on some level or another, although many people speak English fluently as a second language.  This is definitely a huge help when trying to navigate the culture and country.  I believe that my insight and experiences will make your trip easier and more fulfilling.

My hope is that you will find this blog informational and multi-faceted.  First, I want you to see how beautiful and welcoming Jordan is.  Most of the time people are afraid of Jordan based on it being one of the countries comprising the Middle East.  Please do not let this deter you; Jordan is a very safe and welcoming country, where hospitality is one of the best I have found.  Secondly, I want to give a brief background on the sites I visit and write about.  By no means will this be an in-depth report, but a highlight of the destination to get you a good feel for where you are visiting.  Third, I want you feel comfortable visiting a country in the Middle East and hope that if you take anything away from reading this, least you will see that Jordan might not be what you initially thought it was. 

My #1 travel tip in Jordan is to bring tissues with you – everywhere!  Never before have I encountered so many restrooms without toilet paper.  A small bottle of hand sanitizer is also good thought as well, as many bathrooms do not have any soap available.  You will thank me later for this small tip J